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2020/10/11蘋果日報
Maison Margiela 2021春夏白標系列,大量運用濕衣法,其中驚悚感從社會氛圍連結到不容易消化的前衛思維,詮釋角度絕妙。品牌提供
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Maison Margiela 2021春夏再度將古著外套切割再重組。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/C6VCRCAP4RFZ7OUTDMFURDIPIM.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/JGMOL5KVZNECRGNRGL25DZHZ7Q.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/FIAG2OYXANGNVDPQXMCNZUDVNY.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/F7G23UJF6VFCRGMMKDZUYCHTBE.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/OYNISDEKEVE4DNBAVMWB2PXOYY.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/YQJ72SLIYFB4JDALHZVWN4BFTM.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/HSG6FUUC5BDJHH273ZMZKPFCMQ.jpg)
「濕衣法」剪裁為春夏一大重點,取材自希臘大理石雕像工法。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/LX26TFB7WVEMBH3IDIE6NOG35A.jpg)
春夏視覺和輪廓皆以探戈舞為主軸,探討彼此之間的信任連結。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/5ERRM4U2VBAS5MSDFXDNL5FAHI.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/SYPLX7KGONEEXCUAD4FPPSNAFU.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/7ZX6575J6JG7POWVWAEQ6QWB6A.jpg)
Maison Margiela春夏在古典輪廓中運用透視法營造前衛感。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/RNEYVDSL5VETRKXXGI66F5F4Y4.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/TUNENXWO5ZA5NJGHCJDVKXQ6BE.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏Co-Ed白標系列。品牌提供 /cloudfront-ap-northeast-1.images.arcpublishing.com/appledaily/5RRIXIJNANBW7EK2HK4563S2EY.jpg)
Maison Margiela 2021春夏白標系列,驚悚感從社會氛圍連結到不容易消化的前衛思維,詮釋角度絕妙。品牌提供
Maison Margiela濕衣法絕了!驚悚探戈再現神鬼解構
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敗也疫情,成也疫情。病毒災難導致現實面受限,卻也造就想像面的海闊天空,像是隔離狀態督促設計師重新定位衣服本質,並透過各式手法表現2021春夏系列,「解構之家」Maison Margiela Co-ed白標系列即以影片發表,視覺和輪廓皆以探戈舞為主軸,探討人與人之間的信任連結,還有新、舊慾望的拉扯融合。其影像風格有點鬼魅、低氣壓,驚悚感從社會氛圍連結到Margiela不容易消化的前衛思維,細膩完整性可沒輸給一場實體秀。
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品牌創意總監John Galliano與影像大師Nick Knight合作的「S.W.A.L.K.」主題影片,從2020秋冬訂製服的首部曲延伸到春夏白標系列的第2章,「濕衣法」(Wet-drapery)為貫穿兩章節最重要的裁縫工藝,「濕衣法」原指西元前興起的希臘大理石雕塑工法,當時石雕的衣褶線條自垂直發展為多向流動感,連帶地衣褶下的軀體也有另種詩意呈現,John Galliano則利用大量薄紗與薄棉布,詮釋抓褶和陰影的層次感。
破壞再重建一向是Margiela核心精髓,軍裝外套的袖子與下襬被割開後,內層露出未被妥善處理的鬚線,連墊肩也慘不忍睹被剖開,赤裸的詩情畫意不需要被外人理解,穿著者與那件衣服之間的情感連結,就像一支探戈般激情且親密。(薛佳甯/台北報導)
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